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June 2001
TREMOLO SYSTEMS
In the last issue I talked about how to set your guitar's intonation.
I mentioned special considerations for a "floating" bridge
configuration. What is a "floating bridge"? I thought bridges went
above the water. Not on them! In this issue we will be discussing
making adjustments to the existing tremolo system of your guitar.
Since the advent of the Fender Stratocaster in the 1950's, many
electric guitar bridges have incorporated tremolo systems, wang bars,
whammy bars, etc. In the late 1970's Floyd Rose developed the first
double-locking tremolo system that allowed guitarists to perform all
types of pitch-bending effects like dive-bombs.
Tremolo systems need to be setup properly and according to each
player's personal preferences. There are basically two important
components in a tremolo system: (a) the bridge which pivots on screws
and (b) springs that attach to the body of the guitar and the bridge.
SPRINGS
There are disagreements among knowledgeable people about how many
springs you should use. In my humble opinion, it is dependent upon the
gauge of string you use. The heavier the string gauge, the greater the
number of springs you should use.
Also, spring tension can be adjusted with the wood screws mounted in
the rear body cavity of Strat-style guitars. For .010 gauge string
sets, I use three springs. For .009's or .008's, I would use two
springs. For .011's or higher, I would use four springs. Adjustment of
the spring tension is up to you. Set it where it feels best to you
when pushing the tremolo arm.
Make sure your guitar is tuned to natural pitch before adjusting the
spring tension. And be aware the changing "spring tension" will change
your "string tension" and tuning. You will have to retune after making
this adjustment.
FLOYD ROSE TREMOLO SYSTEMS
Floyd Rose systems are bulkier than standard Stratocaster tremolo
systems but are more flexible as well. You can set the bridge flat
against the guitar body so that you can only push down on the tremolo
arm or you can "float" the bridge. What does that mean?
When a bridge is floating, the rear is typically sitting 1/16" to
3/16" off the body of the guitar. This is great if you want to be able
to pull up on the tremolo arm for cool whammy effects. I float mine so
that I can get subtle vibrato effects that you can't get if your
bridge is against the body.
But there is a down side to "floating" your bridge. It can float away
(just kidding). When a bridge is floating, it is being held in place
by the opposing tensions of the strings and springs. If one tension
decreases, the other increases, and vice versa. So, if you are
whammying or bending a note and snap a string, guess what? You have
decreased the string tension which, as we explained, increases the
spring tension. Now, instead of six strings holding the bridge in
place, you have only five. And those five have more tension pulling
against them which makes them go up in pitch. Unfortunately, this
additional tension is not distributed evenly across the strings so
your entire guitar goes out of tune. Yikes! Watch out!
STAY IN TUNE
If you are using a tremolo with a non-locking or non-rolling nut, such
as a bone nut, you must keep it free from burrs and you must keep it
well-lubricated. To remove burrs, use a very fine file to keep the
grooves in a nice "V" shape. Be careful not to file the groove deeper.
This can lower your action and cause fret buzz. For lubrication, I
prefer graphite (pencil lead works great).
I hope these tips help you to make the minor adjustments to help you
to get the most out of your existing tremolo system. If you have any
other suggestions that we might want to include in a future issue of
GuitarLife, please send us an email at: guitarlife@stringlife.com.
Until next time,
STAY IN TUNE
Steve
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